Mo Moto
I spent some quality time with my inline 4 last week. I've reached bottom and its time to head to the finish line.
I did the rod bearings as you saw in a previous post. Here's a pic of the oil pan with an Ireland Engineering crankscraper installed just before I buttoned it up. When you have only 100 hp, even 1 or 2 more counts.
Next it was time to replace the rear main crank seal. This is the $5 part that leaks but costs you $800 to get to when it's in the car. So since I'm here, gonna replace both front and rear ones.
Another job, another tool. Here's my new flywheel lock attached to the side. I need to pull the flywheel to get to the seal and any torque on the bolts just convert my wrenching to sending the pistons up and down inside the motor instead of loosing the bolts. Thus the lock.
This was a bit of a pain, as the area I needed to work on was the part attached to the engine stand. Some McGuyer engineering and I suspended the block with my attic hoist while I attacked this problem.
Minus the flywheel now. There's the end of the crankshaft peaking out. The seal looks actually pretty good, no leaks. But it's still gotta go.
Just need to pull the cover off, press out the old seal, and gently press in the new one. That's done with a small hammer going tap, tap, tap around the outside of the seal as its a pretty tight friction fit. Tap, Tap, move 90 degrees, tap, tap, move 90 degrees and repeat until its flush.
Refreshed timing covers, new gaskets, and a new main crank seal were installed up front.
On the cosmetic side, the camtower was also painted. You can see the cam for the distributor poking out of the left rear of the camtower. New exhaust studs will be installed shortly
New water pump installed.
. And that's where we're are at the moment. Time to start adding some of the plumbing and electrical bits. Soon it will be ready to go back into the car along with the tranny. Hopefully the car should be going into the paint booth soon.
 |
| Looking good ... |
I did the rod bearings as you saw in a previous post. Here's a pic of the oil pan with an Ireland Engineering crankscraper installed just before I buttoned it up. When you have only 100 hp, even 1 or 2 more counts.
Next it was time to replace the rear main crank seal. This is the $5 part that leaks but costs you $800 to get to when it's in the car. So since I'm here, gonna replace both front and rear ones.
Another job, another tool. Here's my new flywheel lock attached to the side. I need to pull the flywheel to get to the seal and any torque on the bolts just convert my wrenching to sending the pistons up and down inside the motor instead of loosing the bolts. Thus the lock.
This was a bit of a pain, as the area I needed to work on was the part attached to the engine stand. Some McGuyer engineering and I suspended the block with my attic hoist while I attacked this problem.
Minus the flywheel now. There's the end of the crankshaft peaking out. The seal looks actually pretty good, no leaks. But it's still gotta go.
Just need to pull the cover off, press out the old seal, and gently press in the new one. That's done with a small hammer going tap, tap, tap around the outside of the seal as its a pretty tight friction fit. Tap, Tap, move 90 degrees, tap, tap, move 90 degrees and repeat until its flush.
 |
| New seal installed |
Refreshed timing covers, new gaskets, and a new main crank seal were installed up front.
On the cosmetic side, the camtower was also painted. You can see the cam for the distributor poking out of the left rear of the camtower. New exhaust studs will be installed shortly
New water pump installed.
. And that's where we're are at the moment. Time to start adding some of the plumbing and electrical bits. Soon it will be ready to go back into the car along with the tranny. Hopefully the car should be going into the paint booth soon.
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